Arrived, slept, ready

My first choice for a website in India was this: http://swingindia.com/ I was upset to find that it was taken and that I already have competition for swinging in India. Please have a look at what I am up against.

In my research before coming here, I, of course, scoured the net for articles and dance classes and teachers in India. A simple google search for: "partner dance sexual diseases bank account emptied and broken teeth" brought me this article:
http://mumbai.broowaha.com/article.php?id=2840 written in December 2007.

Also through a google search I found my first mention in the press: http://www.expressindia.com/latest-news/Coming-through/259315/
After this written interview, I never heard from the author if it was actually published and found it about a month later when searching for more teachers in india.

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"the temperature is 31c/90f and very humid..." the capitain announced as we arrived... and indeed the sun through the window of the plane burned hot on my neck.

There's nothing like that first step off of the plane in Mumbai. There is a smell so peculiar to this place. Not bad but completely unique and instantly recognizable. My sense memories were kicking in, and as I walked through the terminal towards baggage claim I thought of the last time I was here in 2004. India came back to me in a rush... everything I hadn't thought of in preparing for this project. It is one thing to make a pretty website, and tell everyone you are going, but the reality of your decisions don't become apparent until they hit you with a hot rush of air in your face, and instantly soaks you in your own sweat...

My friend Lisa, someone I had studied with in Ghana in 2002 and is now living in Mumbai teaching at the American school, arranged for a driver. He was waiting anxiously with a sign in his hand, and I nodded at him appreciatively. He said his name, grabbed my suitcase and rushed towards his car. That was about the most we said to each other the entire ride... he focusing on the road, and me focusing on my thoughts. The passing scenery, slums, and hotels, organized chaos of the traffic, horns, and the smell of plastic burning brought back more memories.

Lisa's apartment is located to the North of the city, in a neighborhood called Bandra. It is a newer part of town, and is becoming known as the new "place to see and be seen" by India's most famous celebrities.

In preparing to come here I have contacted every dance school and teacher I could find online in Mumbai, so I had several people waiting for my call. After sleeping off the afternoon, I started making phone calls, and set up three meetings for the next day, one the day after, one on Friday, and so on.
I also called a Greek woman who saw my website and is desperate to dance tango. She and Andy, her fiance picked me up at 8 for dinner. I was expecting a night out at some local bar, and as I got in the car next to their driver Andy asked me if I knew of any places around. I said no, I am still getting my bearings, and he instructed the driver in Hindi. "I know a place, one of my favorites.," and we shot off through Bandra. And in the classic complexity of contrasts in Mumbai, and India herself, we drove past slums, taxi ranks, beach fires, pot holes, thumping clubs charging $50 a head, open sewers, and then turned into the Lands End Taj. The most expensive and luxurious hotel in the city (and probably on the sub-continent).

I ordered a beer at the bar: $8, and recognized a slightly suprised look from Andi. Then they ordered double Whiskey sodas, at $30 each... and suddenly I was in a world I barely recognized, where the price on the menu represents how quickly a waiter jumps up to light your cigarette when you pull one out of a box.
A lounge band played Fly Me to the Moon, and Route 66, as they told me about the woes of house searching Mumbai. The prices here are rivaled only by Manhattan. You can spend $6000 a month for a small decent flat in the center. But even that price doesn't get you anything you can raise a family in.

Then we got to talking about dance... Andi had great perspective on the city, and the places to try to get things going. He knew some of my contacts, and provided a few more, ad well as ideas for Bangalore, and Goa... two places I have also been considering trying to develop Lindy Hop. As we ordered more drinks and snacks, we talked about professionalism, art, music, Indian views on partner dancing, and the challenges I will have to overcome to make this thing happen. It was a very enlightening conversation, and got me pretty excited. In that time we charged up a bill that exceeded the money I had changed that day by a factor of three.

We moved on to one of the Taj's three restaurants, and sat in a beautiful candlelit room. The walls were completely made of red marble, with small inset cages housing one candle each. The effect, with the swirl of marble around them, looked like a picture of space, with shining stars and the vapors of some distant galaxy. We ate and drank, and the conversation moved on to the history of India, global warming, terrorism, religion, politics, and our dinner ended with a story from Andy about the history of the festival of Ganesh, the elephant god. The festival had occurred for thousands of years, but it didn't become a procession through the streets until the British banned public meetings, with the only exception being meetings for religious purposes. The Ganesh processions were used by the Anti-British movement for covert meetings and plan making.

Andy flatly refused my offer to help pay the bill, and we left the Taj, back into the world of slums and local chai huts and food stands at the beach. Back into the world that I know and move in. The world where when you take a step, sand squishes between your toes and chai is served from the seller's head in a metal cup that is passed to the next customer.

Today I have three meetings. One with the Prima-Ballerina of India who wants to start Tango at her Ballet Academy, another with a local Tango and Salsa teacher who seems to know the scene well in Mumbai, and the Dutch owner of Zenzi Bar in Bandra "The place to be in the place to be." The Mumbai salsa scene started at his bar, so he seems to have good perspective on what it will take.

I'll share more stories as soon as I can.
Much love,
Tim